+- MacResource (https://forums.macresource.com)
+-- Forum: My Category (https://forums.macresource.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=1)
+--- Forum: Tips and Deals (https://forums.macresource.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=3)
+--- Thread: Updated with real images: Woodworkers--thoughts about my plans for a radiator cover, please (/showthread.php?tid=240374)
Updated with real images: Woodworkers--thoughts about my plans for a radiator cover, please - anonymouse1 - 04-22-2020
Mrs. Anonymouse and I have been planning to put some Mission-style covers on the radiators in our 1918-vintage home. The two basic choices are the ones with a wood frame around the edges and perforated metal on the sides (the metallike this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-36-in-x-36-in-Union-Jack-Aluminum-in-Silver-57208/100351162).
I can build a wood frame and attach the metal to it with no problem, but I don't think it's particularly attractive, so it will go probably in the spare bedroom, my wife's office, etc.
For the more prominent locations, I like the mission/shaker style, a lot, like these:
As you can see, there are structural pieces on top and below the slats, with the slats either butt-flush to the structural pieces, or placed behind the structural pieces (i.e., closer to the radiator than the structural piece).
I like the on in the first image more, which has the slats butt-flush against the structural pieces, rather than behind the structural pieces. But the only way I could find to build that (short of taking a sheet of plywood and using a router to cut out the spaces between the slats) was to either use dowel holes and rods, or pocket screws. That's way too much work, so I was stuck for months trying to figure out an alternative. I think I have one, and this is where I'd like your thoughts:
How about if I first attach the vertical slats to a thin horizontal strip of wood that is as wide from side to side as the top and bottom structural pieces, and is as deep from front to back as the top and bottom structural pieces, using a jig to hold alignment between the strip and the slats, and use glue and a brad nail gun to fasten the slats to the strip by nailing through the strip into the strip. Sort of nailing through the top of the strip into each slat. Then I flip the assemblage and put it back into the jig to attach an identical strip to the opposite end of the slats.
Once I have the whole assemblage built, then I would put glue on the outside sides of the strip, and nail through from the inside to attach that side of the assemblage to the structural piece. Then do the same thing on the opposite side of the assemblage
Then attach the structural pieces edges to each other to assemble the radiator cover.
Something like this rough exploded diagram I just pulled together:
Is that clear? What do you think?
Re: Updated with real images: Woodworkers--thoughts about my plans for a radiator cover, please - davester - 04-22-2020
Why would pocket screws be more work than your method? I think that would be the best method by far. Glue and brads is not going to work if you are using solid wood rather than plywood because glue end grain glue joints fail and brads have no holding power in end grain. This is especially the case for a piece that will be subject to varying temperatures. Do you not have a pocket screw jig? This would be easy peasy with pocket screws.
Re: Updated with real images: Woodworkers--thoughts about my plans for a radiator cover, please - anonymouse1 - 04-22-2020
Thanks, davester. I'd have to drill a hole in each end of the slat, then put a screw into the hole. I've never used pocket screws. At a guess, that's maybe 5-10 minutes per slat, as opposed to 5 minutes for an entire row of slats. How long do you think it would take to attach each slat, at one end, to the structural piece?
Thanks!
Re: Updated with real images: Woodworkers--thoughts about my plans for a radiator cover, please - fromish - 04-22-2020
This kind of joinery is traditionally done with mortise and tenon, or one of the machine made modern substitutes. However, that joinery technique is probably overkill, but I would not rely on nails. Pocket screws seem iffy given the thickness of the verticals. Follow your plan but rely on glue (Titebond III is excellent and very strong) if the wood won't get too hot. The nails would loosen and pop over time as the wood heats and cools and the changes in moisture content over the year will cause the wood to swell and shrink. I would get some top grade CA (cyanoacrylate) glue to work with the Titebond. Apply the Titebond, put several dots of CA glue at each joint, surround the CA glue with Titebond and clamp it. You ought to use a jig to keep the slats parallel and perpendicular. The CA glue will bond in less than ten minutes, after which time you can take the clamps off and let the Titebond cure to near maximum strength (24 hours is safe.)
Re: Updated with real images: Woodworkers--thoughts about my plans for a radiator cover, please - anonymouse1 - 04-22-2020
Fromish--interesting idea to combine the CYA with the Titebond. Also, I'm reading that sizing the end grain first can help.
How hot is too hot? I mean, these radiators probably get to 200 degrees, anyway....
Re: Updated with real images: Woodworkers--thoughts about my plans for a radiator cover, please - pdq - 04-22-2020
My only concern is that (obviously) heat rises, and the covers I’ve seen like this before tend to have a perforated top (sometimes a perforated metal insert or screen).
Seems like over time, you might warp the top piece. But I don’t have tons of experience in this area.
Re: Updated with real images: Woodworkers--thoughts about my plans for a radiator cover, please - jdc - 04-22-2020
Any reason not to just buy one already done?
Re: Updated with real images: Woodworkers--thoughts about my plans for a radiator cover, please - davester - 04-22-2020
pdq wrote:
My only concern is that (obviously) heat rises, and the covers I’ve seen like this before tend to have a perforated top (sometimes a perforated metal insert or screen).
Seems like over time, you might warp the top piece. But I don’t have tons of experience in this area.
I also had that concern.
Re: Updated with real images: Woodworkers--thoughts about my plans for a radiator cover, please - anonymouse1 - 04-22-2020
We need at least 5 of them, and the decent ones are maybe $350 each. If I set up a jig, and I can glue/brad the slats in, I can probably get all 5 done in, oh, maybe 15 hours. So that's an after-tax $100/hour in my pocket--that's more than I make.
And....bragging rights!
jdc wrote:
Any reason not to just buy one already done?
Re: Updated with real images: Woodworkers--thoughts about my plans for a radiator cover, please - davester - 04-22-2020
fromish wrote:
Follow your plan but rely on glue (Titebond III is excellent and very strong) if the wood won't get too hot.
Again, an end grain glue joint is pretty much worthless. Might be OK if you're using plywood but not much glue surface for something undergoing daily temperature/humidity changes. Another option if you don't want to use pocket screws is to do it your way but instead of brads use screws.
Of course, there's always the ideal choice...mortise and tenon. Not simple, but perhaps the quarantine is a good time to learn this skill.