Need advice on a washer/dryer repair/replacement

[davester]

If I were you, the parts were inexpensive, and the appliance is not ancient, I'd definitely try DIY repair first. I've repaired may washers, dryers dishwashers and refrigerators over the years and would rather risk the cost of a few parts instead of throwing away money on a white box that washes or dries clothes. On top of saving money, think how good you'll feel about yourself if you get it fixed...that's worth something right there.

[Dennis S]

Fix it. It's likely a $10 part available on eBay. You tube can probably show you how to do it.

[PeterB]

OK guys, sorry I was at work and am now just getting back to this thread...

Here's the model: Frigidaire FFLE4033QT0 -- a 2015 model, so it's 4 years old.

The error codes it's giving (number of beeps): 5/1, 5/3, 6/5, 5/3, 6/5. (It automatically stores the last five error codes, in order.)

Link to diagnosing error codes here: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/err...dryer/1428 ... so the most recent error code would be E51, "Motor relay is open".

The issue for me, where else would I put a full size washer and dryer? I would need both the AC and water hookups, which would mean significant rewiring / plumbing changes that I really probably can't afford right now. I could probably just buy a used dryer (only) and plug in by a regular 120V outlet somewhere, but of course that might trip the breakers if the circuit can't handle it.

[Ombligo]

A standard dryer running on 120v is going to be incredibly inefficient. You'll be looking of drying times in the 4-5 hour range per load.

So let us look outside the box at solutions used by people living off the grid or in RV's. - the Spin Dryer.

A spin dryer simply ramps up the spin cycle of a washing machine. A typical washer spins at 300-600 RPM, a spin dryer goes in the 1800-3000 RPM. It will remove just about all water from your wash and allow for a dryer to be done in just a short time or complete air drying in under an hour (even a hairdryer will finish the job in a few minutes).

The units are small and run off minimal power.

[Harbourmaster]

Looking at the codes you listed it would appear that the dryer has been overheating. first thing to do is go through this set of steps.

Clean the lint screen and the exhaust vent duct system to the outside of your home. A clogged screen or exhaust vent duct can cause the dryer to overheat. If the exhaust system is clear, unplug the laundry center and check the resistance of the thermistor (temperature sensor). You should measure around 50,000 ohms at room temperature (77 degrees F). Replace the thermistor if you measure over 60,000 ohms. Unplug the wires from the heater relay on the dryer electronic control board. Measure the resistance through the prongs on the heater relay. You should measure infinite resistance. If you measure near 0 ohms of resistance, replace the dryer electronic control board because the heater relay is stuck closed.

If all that is OK then next go through the troubleshooting for steps 5/3 and 5/1.

Seems pretty straight forward to me.

[mattkime]

PeterB wrote: which would mean significant rewiring / plumbing changes that I really probably can't afford right now.

you said you're reasonably handy!

[PeterB]

mattkime wrote:
[quote=PeterB]which would mean significant rewiring / plumbing changes that I really probably can't afford right now.

you said you're reasonably handy!
Reasonably is a relative term. I think some things are better handled by a qualified plumber and electrician.

Harbourmaster wrote:
Looking at the codes you listed it would appear that the dryer has been overheating. first thing to do is go through this set of steps.

Clean the lint screen and the exhaust vent duct system to the outside of your home. A clogged screen or exhaust vent duct can cause the dryer to overheat. If the exhaust system is clear, unplug the laundry center and check the resistance of the thermistor (temperature sensor). You should measure around 50,000 ohms at room temperature (77 degrees F). Replace the thermistor if you measure over 60,000 ohms. Unplug the wires from the heater relay on the dryer electronic control board. Measure the resistance through the prongs on the heater relay. You should measure infinite resistance. If you measure near 0 ohms of resistance, replace the dryer electronic control board because the heater relay is stuck closed.

If all that is OK then next go through the troubleshooting for steps 5/3 and 5/1.

Seems pretty straight forward to me.

The lint screen / exhaust vent duct system, that's pretty easy, though I don't think that will magically cause the dryer to start working again because of the 5/1 error. To do the rest of what you suggested in that paragraph means disassembling the dryer, which from the video that I've seen, is NOT a minor undertaking.

Ombligo wrote:
A standard dryer running on 120v is going to be incredibly inefficient. You'll be looking of drying times in the 4-5 hour range per load.

So let us look outside the box at solutions used by people living off the grid or in RV's. - the Spin Dryer.

A spin dryer simply ramps up the spin cycle of a washing machine. A typical washer spins at 300-600 RPM, a spin dryer goes in the 1800-3000 RPM. It will remove just about all water from your wash and allow for a dryer to be done in just a short time or complete air drying in under an hour (even a hairdryer will finish the job in a few minutes).

The units are small and run off minimal power.

Recommendations? The ones I'm seeing on Amazon are practically more than a used full-size dryer price-wise.

[Ombligo]

PeterB wrote:
Recommendations? The ones I'm seeing on Amazon are practically more than a used full-size dryer price-wise.

Those full-size dryers are 240v. You can run them at 120v but they will only give you about 1/4th the drying power. You'll be looking at 4 hrs to dry a load and huge electric costs. If you can run 240v then a full-size is a no brainer, but at 120v you need something to make it work and that is the spin dryer.

You say you are handy - then you can easily build one. Here is a video to use as inspiration (but you can easily do better) -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jNv6mUmyIY

[PeterB]

Ombligo wrote:
[quote=PeterB]
Recommendations? The ones I'm seeing on Amazon are practically more than a used full-size dryer price-wise.

Those full-size dryers are 240v. You can run them at 120v but they will only give you about 1/4th the drying power. You'll be looking at 4 hrs to dry a load and huge electric costs. If you can run 240v then a full-size is a no brainer, but at 120v you need something to make it work and that is the spin dryer.

You say you are handy - then you can easily build one. Here is a video to use as inspiration (but you can easily do better) -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jNv6mUmyIY
Seems like those things have nearly no capacity though. I think I'm back to square one, folks...