mechanic question follow-up

[wurm]

Original thread here

Upon closer inspection, the hose referenced in that thread may not be the problem after all. I discovered a crack in that big accordian boot which the little hose is connected to. So here's a follow-up question. Assuming I can fix that leak, will the Check Engine light automatically go off, or do I have to reset the codes? I can do that easily enough, but then I'll have to start over again in my driving cycle routine to get everything cleared for inspection. If the light would go off on its own once the problem is fixed, without my clearing the trouble code, then I'll know where I stand. And if it would go off on its own, would it take some time or would it go off right away?

Thanks.

[Done]

I think you will have to reset, and then I think it's around 40 miles you need to drive. I reset mine and drove for 40 miles and it passed, I was lucky my light came back on about 20 miles later. But now it's in cash for clunkers heaven.

[RAMd®d]

Sometimes the Check Engine light will reset itself when some faulty conditions are corrected, but I don't know which those are.

I didn't put my gas cap on correctly and got a Check Engine light. The first time it happened, I went to my local friendly neighborhood mechanic who reset the light. The next time it came on, I double checked the cap, tightened, and in a few miles, the light went out.

[Jimmypoo]

Is your Mass Air Flow Sensor inside that boot? I don't know on that vehicle. But you need to clear the code
with the key forward, but not running.

Considering the age, I'd check the TSBs and see if they are replacing the hose for free.
If this is the Mazda, just replace the hose. Find a You-Pull lot and an MPV, spend $10, and
you'll have parts for that car for 20 years.

btw... clearing the code isn't clearing the computer. NOT the same thing. There's nothing to relearn.
You need the big gun (Snap-On) or dealer version to clear the brain for the engine or the tranny computer.

Let's see... we covered your dryer, kitchen, gas pipes, Mazda and your corn.

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[OWC Jamie]

8 to 12 foot surfing on the East Coast this weekend.

Wood burners get your chains sharpened.

They give you 30 days with a fail emission test, no ?
( never had a fail, even with a intermittant light)

[davester]

Here in California you need to have the codes cleared and then drive quite a distance (50 miles for me last time this happened) to get the computer to reset itself so that you can retake the emissions test. Of course, YMMV depending on both the vehicle type and state.

[ajakeski]

Mass airflow sensor. MAS
If the intake hose (Accordian boot) has a hole, the engine is drawing in unfiltered air. The unfiltered air is contaminating the MAS. You have to replace the intake hose and the MAS.
If you take your car to AutoZone or a similar auto parts store, they'll plug in their scanner and tell you what the problem is.
The other hose is probably a crank case breather tube. It lets fumes in the engine crankcase be drawn into the intake to be burned in the combustion cycle.

[Jimmypoo]

ajakeski wrote:
The other hose is probably a crank case breather tube. It lets fumes in the engine crankcase be drawn into the intake to be burned in the combustion cycle.

I've never seen an EGR go pre-air filter to have access to the MAS. Not unless it was plugged directly into
the manifold somehow - and that would still change to totals vs what the MAS has to say to the brain.

My last 3 cars have the MAS directly behind the air filter - that hose is going in right prior to the FI rack
or intake, is it not?

EDIT -- just looked at old thread - and I think the Billb diagram has it right. That PCV tube goes in right
after the air intake choke, and I think for a few bucks - dump 'em both and put a new valve in too, unless
that was is documented pretty new.

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