[bikes] How often do you have to adjust your hubs?

[btfc]

"It's a 14mm axel. As far as I can tell, no one else never made that. "

It is a common size on BMX bikes.


http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/h...aster-14mm

(also available at Amazon, but more $$)

[davester]

M A V I C wrote:
I can't get replacement cones or nuts for it (I've checked with both Ritchey (hub mfg) and Wheels MFG). I'm tempted to pick up another wheel. But if I do that, then I'm thinking about getting a new set. But if I do that, the I'm thinking about getting a new fork because the current one doesn't have any dampening anymore and there's no replacement parts for it. But if I do that, I'm tempted to go disc brake in the front. But if I do that, I'd need to replace the brake lever. But if I do that, it's integrated with the shifter...

If I did get a new wheel, I'd prefer to go sealed. But, 26", sealed, rim brake wheels are tough to come by.

So for now I think I'll just get a vice and an axel clamp for the vice to make adjusting the hub more easy.

Ah, this is one of the many reasons I love vintage bikes...STANDARDIZED PARTS! (well, except for some older french stuff). For older Campy, Suntour or even early Shimano parts it is soooo easy to buy replacement parts. I think Shimano started the BS with proprietary parts non-interchangeable with anything else, then it just ballooned from there, with all the newer makers producing completely proprietary parts. What a mess! Don't even get me started on the ridiculousness that is indexed shifting.

Are you sure that yu can't get a 26" rim brake wheel set? They are getting less common but there are still plenty around. Here's one: http://www.jensonusa.com/Mountain-Bike-W...AID=389818

Why do you need a vice and axle clamp to adjust a hub? Just a pair of cone wrenches should work unless you have a really odd setup. Here's how its done: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help...-section-9 . If your hubs are truly oddball proprietary parts then you should go to the bikeforums.com bike mechanics sub forum and ask how to deal with them.

[M A V I C]

btfc wrote:
"It's a 14mm axel. As far as I can tell, no one else never made that. "

It is a common size on BMX bikes.


http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/h...aster-14mm

(also available at Amazon, but more $$)

Whoops, I meant 12mm. But for a lock nut, that might still be possible to find.

davester wrote:
[quote=M A V I C]
I can't get replacement cones or nuts for it (I've checked with both Ritchey (hub mfg) and Wheels MFG). I'm tempted to pick up another wheel. But if I do that, then I'm thinking about getting a new set. But if I do that, the I'm thinking about getting a new fork because the current one doesn't have any dampening anymore and there's no replacement parts for it. But if I do that, I'm tempted to go disc brake in the front. But if I do that, I'd need to replace the brake lever. But if I do that, it's integrated with the shifter...

If I did get a new wheel, I'd prefer to go sealed. But, 26", sealed, rim brake wheels are tough to come by.

So for now I think I'll just get a vice and an axel clamp for the vice to make adjusting the hub more easy.

Ah, this is one of the many reasons I love vintage bikes...STANDARDIZED PARTS! (well, except for some older french stuff). For older Campy, Suntour or even early Shimano parts it is soooo easy to buy replacement parts. I think Shimano started the BS with proprietary parts non-interchangeable with anything else, then it just ballooned from there, with all the newer makers producing completely proprietary parts. What a mess! Don't even get me started on the ridiculousness that is indexed shifting.

Are you sure that yu can't get a 26" rim brake wheel set? They are getting less common but there are still plenty around. Here's one: http://www.jensonusa.com/Mountain-Bike-W...AID=389818

Why do you need a vice and axle clamp to adjust a hub? Just a pair of cone wrenches should work unless you have a really odd setup. Here's how its done: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help...-section-9 . If your hubs are truly oddball proprietary parts then you should go to the bikeforums.com bike mechanics sub forum and ask how to deal with them.
Yeah, next time I'm going to make sure the parts are more standard. There are plenty of rim brake setups out there, but it's tough to find anything that's as good of quality as what I have. Something lightweight, durable... plus I'd kind of like sealed bearings. Yeah, I know I can just by the hoops and hubs separately, but that will be $$$.

I'll give that walkthrough a try, but it implies having more space than I have and having a bike stand. My hub is a bit different, as on the non-cog side there's a ~2" or so aluminum collar that goes over the cone and jam nut. The reason for the vice is to keep the axle from moving when I've got a wrench on the cone and jam nut. Otherwise the axel rotates every so slightly as I hold the cone and tighten the jam nut. But I see how they're putting the wheel in just one drop out to prevent that. I'll just need to figure out where to put the bike to do this.

[davester]

M A V I C wrote: The reason for the vice is to keep the axle from moving when I've got a wrench on the cone and jam nut. Otherwise the axel rotates every so slightly as I hold the cone and tighten the jam nut.

That's not the best way to do it. It's better to tighten one lock nut to 100%, then the other lock nut to 80%. Then if you have too much play tighten the opposite locknuts against each other. If you have too little play, put cone wrenches on the two cones and turn the 80% one out. After you get the adjustment nailed you can tighten the 80% locknut while holding the adjacent cone with a cone wrench.

[M A V I C]

Thanks, I'll give that a whirl.

[Fritz]

since youse guys seem to have a clue; to measure the chain, is there any reason to get the CC2 over the CC3.2?
Looks like I should plan on a chain cleaning set and a master link tool.

I'd bet my chain will need replacement as it is 10yo and I put a lot of miles on the first 3 years I had it, '09-'12. Should I stick with the OEM KMC DX10SC or get a SRAM?
I'm a very casual rider, perhaps 500/year and the last few years next to none due to a knee problem.

Or move up to a SRAM eTape wireless ……. yeow!

[davester]

Fritz wrote:
since youse guys seem to have a clue; to measure the chain, is there any reason to get the CC2 over the CC3.2?

Neither. I use a ruler. See the link above.

[M A V I C]

davester wrote:
[quote=Fritz]
since youse guys seem to have a clue; to measure the chain, is there any reason to get the CC2 over the CC3.2?

Neither. I use a ruler. See the link above.
Yep. Then you measure a long section and it's probably more accurate than a chain checking tool. At the ship, we had a chain checker, but that mostly saved us time.

The type of chain doesn't usually matter a whole lot. KMC makes good chains. Just make sure it's the right width.