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Home Thermostat recommendation?
#11
Here's one I we have about 8 in use at our church. I've had one of the 8 fail in 5 years.

http://www.white-rodgers.com/wrdhom/pdfs...R_8677.pdf

Look at the 1F97-371 for 7 day programable. The last one I bought was just over $100. Have 4 settings per day and will auto switch from heat to cool or cool to heat.

Fred Also
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#12
Lee3 wrote:
I have a Ritetemp from Home Depot. It has worked well for 5 years. The reason I bought it is because you can adjust the "swing". This means I can tell it to go 1 degree over or under the set temp. I set the temp at 67, the heater wont come on until the temp goes below 66 and turns off just above 68. I think this saves wear and tear on the heating and cooling system as it doesn't go on and off as much. I don't notice the swing in temperature.

adjustable swing, or whatever an individual manufacturer calls it, is a great thing. Mine cycled 1 minute every 10 or so the first year I owned my home. With the new digital one, after I tinkered with some dip switches and jumpers, has about a 2 degree window. Cycles about once every 20-25 minutes when it is damn cold. My adjustments were based on the type of heat source I have, but the resultant change is the same as adjusting swing or "target temp window"
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#13
Hi everyone,

My office has had at least five "programmable" thermostats from various manufacturers including Honeywell, White-Rogers, Lux and RiteTemp. They're all pieces of crap. Absolute crap. They're difficult to program and unreliable. We're using another Honeywell right now that is supposed to be programmable. But, once again, it doesn't work correctly. Now, we turn the heat up in the morning and turn it down before we leave for the day, at least until we get around to replacing it. When that time comes, we're getting an old-fashioned non-programmable model.

Robert
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#14
davester wrote:

Dakota, I can assure you that it is well proven that for most homes setting back the thermostat saves a significant amount of money and energy.

Perhaps some magazine, or an individual, could run a test. It just feels like the furnace really works hard and long to bring up the temp from 60 to 70. What if it was held steady at 68. I am not sure the answer is so clear cut.
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#15
10 -20% savings with proper use of a setback or programable thermostat.
Most energy studies find or quote 5 to 8 degree ranges to save energy. Both heat and Air.

I saved my old Honeywell round dial and put that back on the wall when I came home and found my house at 82 degrees several Winters ago.
Turning it up and down when I leave and go to bed isn't so hard.

It would be nice to have the house warm before I get up again, but when I had a wood stove someone had to get up to a cold house and get a fire going every morning, too.



I look for decent instructions right on a flip panel on the thermostat.
(for the other two houses I take care of that both have multiple zones and programmable t-stats.)
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#16
Dakota wrote:
Perhaps some magazine, or an individual, could run a test. It just feels like the furnace really works hard and long to bring up the temp from 60 to 70. What if it was held steady at 68. I am not sure the answer is so clear cut.

There has been a huge amount of research done on this. You can find plenty of data if you search the web. Good places to look are Home Energy magazine, the Department of Energy - Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Program - Building Technologies Program, and the Rocky Mountain Institute, among many others.

The furnace works no harder to bring up the temperature further. Since the thermostat is simply an on-off switch, the furnace is putting out the same output all the time, but for longer periods to bring up the temperature more degrees. Actually, it is generally harder on furnace components to cycle a lot, which is what happens when you maintain a warm house 100% of the time. The furnace behaviour is simply a function of heat flow.

As to the science of it, heat is constantly flowing out of a warm house through convection, advection and conduction. The rate of heat flow is governed by: 1) the temperature difference between inside and outside ;and, 2) by the materials the heat must flow through. if you put in weatherstripping and insulation the rate is much reduced. The furnace just injects heat to make up for the loss, therefore if you keep that temperature difference high all the time (leaving the thermostat at one setting), the heat flow is dramatically increased, ergo your furnace has to produce that much more heat to compensate. Very simple equation.

If your furnace has to run an unusually long time to bring up the temperature, then that means that either: 1) the furnace is undersized for the space; or, 2) your weatherstripping or insulation is inadequate.
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#17
My house was built in '56 with no insulation in the exterior walls and only
6" in the attic. We put a 13 SEER Goodman Heat Pump in 2 years ago and it was the best
decision we've made in quite a while. My Oct. power bill, with basically no
heat or AC, was $94. My Nov. bill was $134 and the average temp was
6.8 degrees below normal here in central NC. We keep the heat on either
69 or 70 and the digital non-prog. thermostat is setup to come on and
off at 1 degree below and above the set temp. My Dad had a HVAC business
for 33 years and he has always been an advocate set it and forget it and personally
believe he's right. I'm basically heating my 1900sq.ft. brick ranch for about
a dollar a day.
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