02-21-2022, 04:28 AM
https://forums.macresource.com/read.php?1,2714893
Lowe's had something like pine hardwood at about $5 for a small board. An oak alternative felt a little stiffer but the pine was stiff enough and 1/3 the cost. No one had any marine plywood. Held up great. I used a spade bit to make partial holes for the flat-bottom mounting bolts.
Starting from a corner, I only had to make 2 cuts. Unfortunately, my 10" chop saw wasn't big enough to cut all the way on the long end and making the completion cut was pretty janky. In respect I should have just used a jigsaw to finish, but from more than a foot away you'd not notice. I used a fine-tooth blade and didn't bother to sand.
Here's a comparison with the original plastic tweeter plate (tweeter removed), below. The original tweeter mounted from behind, attaching at those 4 small holes, with just the dome peeking through in the middle hole. Most soft dome tweeters are like this, albeit with round mounts or wave guides etc. The paint is visually a match, textured black spray paint.
So that ugly gash of a hole in my replacement above means the replacement tweeter had to be mounted in front of the mount plate I made and that hole is huge because the magnet assembly would have to fit through it ... I started with a 3.5" hole saw, but the hole was about 1/8" too small, hence the hatchet job on the hole but no one will ever see that.
I looked into the possibly of removing the new tweeter's factory mounting plate and mounting it from behind --- my original plan --- but the seller said don't do that or you'll void the warranty. If I had the spare cash I'd have tried this, because with only a few new small holes drilled I could have reused the original plastic mounts.
The other issue is that a dome tweeter's mounting plate secures the tweeter assembly together: It keeps the protective metal screen on, the dome and therefore the voicemail aligned and the ferrofluid intact. No need to risk any of that going wrong.
Lowe's had something like pine hardwood at about $5 for a small board. An oak alternative felt a little stiffer but the pine was stiff enough and 1/3 the cost. No one had any marine plywood. Held up great. I used a spade bit to make partial holes for the flat-bottom mounting bolts.
Starting from a corner, I only had to make 2 cuts. Unfortunately, my 10" chop saw wasn't big enough to cut all the way on the long end and making the completion cut was pretty janky. In respect I should have just used a jigsaw to finish, but from more than a foot away you'd not notice. I used a fine-tooth blade and didn't bother to sand.
Here's a comparison with the original plastic tweeter plate (tweeter removed), below. The original tweeter mounted from behind, attaching at those 4 small holes, with just the dome peeking through in the middle hole. Most soft dome tweeters are like this, albeit with round mounts or wave guides etc. The paint is visually a match, textured black spray paint.
So that ugly gash of a hole in my replacement above means the replacement tweeter had to be mounted in front of the mount plate I made and that hole is huge because the magnet assembly would have to fit through it ... I started with a 3.5" hole saw, but the hole was about 1/8" too small, hence the hatchet job on the hole but no one will ever see that.
I looked into the possibly of removing the new tweeter's factory mounting plate and mounting it from behind --- my original plan --- but the seller said don't do that or you'll void the warranty. If I had the spare cash I'd have tried this, because with only a few new small holes drilled I could have reused the original plastic mounts.
The other issue is that a dome tweeter's mounting plate secures the tweeter assembly together: It keeps the protective metal screen on, the dome and therefore the voicemail aligned and the ferrofluid intact. No need to risk any of that going wrong.
