08-19-2009, 12:52 PM
If he's talking about compression fittings I wouldn't use them in a sealed wall:
Compression Fittings
Most commonly used on smaller diameters of copper, such as 1/4" or 3/8" copper tubing, compression fittings come in three parts – the sleeve, the nut, and the seat.
The nut slides easily over the outside of the copper, then the sleeve follows it, and then the pipe itself slides into the seat-end of the fitting. When the nut is then tightened down on top of the sleeve, the sleeve compresses and forms a water-tight seal (hopefully).
Again, this is not a common fitting for standard water supply, and should not be used in applications that are closed into a wall. There are, however, solderless fittings which can be used in major applications.
I've never used the crimp type (PEX) or glue bonding method but if I had to tear out a wall to fix a leak I'd learn to sweat the joint or call a 'real' plumber to do it. The cost and time associated with fixing that potential leak are way more than the cost of a torch, flux and solder or even a plumber - not to mention the peace of mind.
I just replaced my shower stall and the plumbing is sealed into an outside wall. Not only did I sweat the joints but I used the heavier grade of copper for the new lines and insulated pipe sleeves just in case. YMMV
Compression Fittings
Most commonly used on smaller diameters of copper, such as 1/4" or 3/8" copper tubing, compression fittings come in three parts – the sleeve, the nut, and the seat.
The nut slides easily over the outside of the copper, then the sleeve follows it, and then the pipe itself slides into the seat-end of the fitting. When the nut is then tightened down on top of the sleeve, the sleeve compresses and forms a water-tight seal (hopefully).
Again, this is not a common fitting for standard water supply, and should not be used in applications that are closed into a wall. There are, however, solderless fittings which can be used in major applications.
I've never used the crimp type (PEX) or glue bonding method but if I had to tear out a wall to fix a leak I'd learn to sweat the joint or call a 'real' plumber to do it. The cost and time associated with fixing that potential leak are way more than the cost of a torch, flux and solder or even a plumber - not to mention the peace of mind.
I just replaced my shower stall and the plumbing is sealed into an outside wall. Not only did I sweat the joints but I used the heavier grade of copper for the new lines and insulated pipe sleeves just in case. YMMV