F/U to ...Black...now my heater doesn't work

[Black]

The reinvestment/recovery act gives up to a $1500 tax credit (=$1500 extra you get back or less you pay) for qualifying improvements for the two year period from 2009 to the end of 2010. "Up to 30%" (can't find any sort of graded info anywhere, but it seems like you need 95% efficiency to qualify in a natural gas furnace.)

http://energytaxincentives.org/consumers...ooling.php

[Black]

guitarist wrote:
You're saying "F U" to Black?

This place gets more ugly and profane all the time!

C(-)ris is welcome to F U me any time.

[Grateful11]

>"Obama printed money"

If that's how you feel about it just don't turn it in on your tax return.

[C(-)ris]

Grateful11 wrote:
>"Obama printed money"

If that's how you feel about it just don't turn it in on your tax return.

I won't, but that doesn't stop the other 10 million people from doing it and then I pay for it in taxes over the next 20 years to forever.

[AAA]

Grateful11 wrote:
>"Obama printed money"

If that's how you feel about it just don't turn it in on your tax return.

I took from the thread title he didn't like him.

[Black]

AAA wrote:
[quote=Grateful11]
>"Obama printed money"

If that's how you feel about it just don't turn it in on your tax return.

I took from the thread title he didn't like him.
I assumed he was blaming Kenneth Cole for his heater not working-- maybe he spilled some on the control board?

[davester]

While shopping for a new furnace, be aware that far more important than the brand of furnace is sizing the unit properly and having it installed properly. A lot of installers just throw in an oversized unit using old wive's tale rules of thumb. That way they don't get too many callbacks. The problem is that an oversized unit wastes a lot of energy and also cycles too much, which can reduce your comfort. Also, a lot of cheapo installers blow it bigtime by not checking, sealing, insulating and balancing the duct system (many of which are currently leaking and pumping your expensive hot or cold air into the attic or basement as I discussed in your earlier post), or get the venting/gas supply wrong, causing reliability problems. If the installer isn't going to do an energy audit/heat loss/uptake calculation (this must be done using industry standard ACCA Manual J or better) then walk away and find somebody else. I would also recommend that you have an energy audit done at the same time...the audit should tell you what inexpensive energy efficiency work (insulation/weatherstripping, radiant barrier, etc) should precede the install Sizing the system based on your old unit's size is never a good idea, especially when you are changing to a more efficient furnace. I'd strongly recommend having a phone interview with each of your bidders to make sure they are going to do it the right way before having them do a bid.

Here are a couple of good articles on these concepts and a discussion of brands:
http://www.consumersearch.com/furnaces/review
http://www.aceee.org/consumerguide/heating.htm

[macphanatic]

A high efficiency furnace will not be able to use your old chimney. Most are vented via a 2 inch diameter pvc. Many also use pvc to bring combustion air in from outside. Depending on the home that you are putting it in, it could factor into the cost (how difficult is it to run the pvc vent line).

[davester]

Yes and no. When we changed to a PVC vented system the vent ran straight up the old furnace flue, no problem.

[C(-)ris]

The furnace room is on an outside wall ahd has a couple feet above ground. I don't think it will be a problem to run the PVC out if neccessary.

Thanks for the info Davester. I remember the gas company saying something about them doing energy audits if you call. Time for me to do some research.