Getting backyard fence replaced - what to look for and lookout for

[john dough]

We are going to replace out backyard fence and want to know what to look for in a reputable contractor (no way am I doing this myself, as I don't have the time or skill) as well as what would be a good material to use. Right now our fence is wood but it has a little rot in some spots (prior owners had a hot tub which leaked toward fence) and I am not real fond of the look.

Anybody have any good advice?

[lafinfil]

Are the posts and cross frames in good condition ?

If so you might not have to replace those - just use them for new facing.

That would save a lot right there. Worth checking out.

[Chupa Chupa]

Make sure they use pressure treated wood, unless your fence is painted. A pressure treated fence will not rot under normal conditions, but it's hard to paint or stain. Also make sure they are licensed, bonded and insured. Any time I have work done on my house I always ask for a copy of their proof-of-insurance. Reputable contracts will get it to you quickly. Fly-by-nights will scramble and avoid b/c they can't provide you with something they don't have. I go to the extra step of actually calling the insurance co to confirm the policy is active.

[papercup]

Some communities require "good side out", meaning the smooth, nice side faces your neighbors.

If you are just repairing, you may not need to look into a permit, but ask your contractor.

That shiny plastic stuff looks horrible, but requires no maintenance. Not real strong, either.

[cbelt3]

Don't follow my experience. We got the vinyl fence, and our landscaper installed it. And totally screwed up. "Oh yeah, I've put this in loads of places'. What they won't tell you is that each hollow post is supposed to have a nice srong 4x4x8 inside it, THEN it all gets cemented down. Ours didn't except in a few spots. So now- the fence is falling over in a few spots. I have to go back, slice off the bottom of the posts, drop a 4x4 into it, put the post back up, dig out the sides, lever it up, cement around, blah, blah, blah. Total pain in the posterior.

I miss my old house and the nice wooden fence. Power wash and re-stain every five years, done.

[mjgkramer]

Specify that they are to use pressure treated posts. The above ground part can be cedar or untreated pine, but the posts must be treated. Also make sure they are set in concrete.

Make sure that the fence is on your property. If it is on the neighbor's side you might have to take it down.

Make sure the fence is acceptable to the home owners' association if you have deed restrictions.

If it were my fence, I would have the contractor use aluminum nails so they do not stain the wood. However, they will not be able use a nail gun if they use aluminum nails and aluminum nails can be hard to find.

If you have them take down the old fence and remove it, make sure you get it in writing that they will do so.

Do not pay them until the job is completed and you are satisfied with the results.

[MikeF]

They also have stainless steel screws and nails that can be used...

[M>B>]

I would use metal posts in concrete and make it "friendly", the same look on both sides, though that to the expense. Or at least alternate the panels so the "good" sides switch between you and the neighbor.

There is plenty of hardware available for metal posts.

And, discuss any project with your neighbor and don't surprise them, plus ask about cost sharing as it might benefit both of you.

In the process you should find the in ground, tagged property markers so you don't loose or gain any property. Over time a fence line can re-establish a property line.

[morlock]

Would galvanized nails rust? They're pretty easy to find.



-Too poor to paint, too proud to whitewash.

[M>B>]

If you use nails use "hot dipped" not "electro galvanized". Much better for the task!