Alright, let's get serious. I need a household glue that WORKS and won't dry up and won't clog up the tip

[Dennis S]

I don't think I've ever had "Super" glue to work. I need it mostly for plastic-to-plastic - like a TV remote. Does model airplane glue work as good as it used to?

So, what glues, in addition to Elmer's, do I need in my cabinet?

[modelamac]

"Does model airplane glue work as good as it used to?" Yes.

A hot glue gun is handy. JB Weld (auto parts store) is also good.

[OWC Jamie]

I've never, ever had a problem with Superglue working excellent when I didn't want it to.

[M>B>]

Gorilla Glue, many varieties...

http://gorillaglue.com/

[Don Kiyoti]

[quote Dennis S]I don't think I've ever had "Super" glue to work. I need it mostly for plastic-to-plastic - like a TV remote. Does model airplane glue work as good as it used to?

So, what glues, in addition to Elmer's, do I need in my cabinet?
If the plastic is styrene then yes, model airplane glue will work, BUT I'd still avoid the stuff in tubes. Look for a liquid such as Testors at your local hobby shop if you have one. It's actually a solvent which melts the plastic to make a join. It's basically MEK (methyl ethyl ketone).

Super glue (cyanoacrylate) would still be my choice for joining most plastics though. Use acetone to clean the tips. It's difficult to keep the tips from clogging. For model building I sometimes use those little bitty tubes which you can buy in bulk.

[Filliam H. Muffman]

If the plastic is clean, Gorilla Glue can work. It is a little different in that it is activated with water. Keep moisture out and a bottle can stay good for years.

Epoxy is a little overkill but it can work. I have had problems trying to use plastic model glue on random "plastic" parts. There are several types of plastics. Solvent type glues for one plastic do not work at all on other types.

[Mike Johnson]

In your cabinet?
Loctite Plastix
Shoe Goo
Testor's
5 minute epoxy
JB Weld
Thick cyanoacrylate -- your superglue may be CA, or may not be, and it's probably watery besides -- plus accelerant
Hot glue gun -- not a medium hot glue gun, but a hot hot glue gun.

[Rick-o]

[quote M>B>]Gorilla Glue, many varieties...

http://gorillaglue.com/
I've given up on GG. The stuff DOES work, but every time I want to use it a 2nd time, it's a solid chunk of rock.

Filliam, how do you keep the moisture out? Even when I put the cap back on tight, it still hardens up. Maybe that's a design "feature" to keep us buying new bottles?

[M>B>]

[quote Rick-o][quote M>B>]
I've given up on GG. The stuff DOES work, but every time I want to use it a 2nd time, it's a solid chunk of rock.
I am in dry California and I haven't had a problem with that.

You might take the cap off, squeeze the air out of bottle, place a plastic membrane over the opening and replace the cap. Plus, I always purchase the smallest bottle for the job at hand.

I am also a fan of Gorilla Tape. About 10 times better than Duct Tape. I buy the smaller rolls or what fits the job and keep it in a zip lock plastic bag to prevent it from drying out.

[Jimmypoo]

Goop is some of the most universally incredible stuff around -- been around for longer than any of the new stuff like GG.

Plastics - while you don't say what MATERIAL (it's hard to know sometimes) it is you are gluing, they are typically going to be non-polar. For example, what you have in a remote is probably going to be ABS or it could be a high impact polypropylene.

Not being "polar" essentially means it doesn't have any electrons to give away or any empty shells to accept one. Special techniques are used to treat these materials in order to make them more friendly to things like paint and glue (including such simplicity as treating it with a flame!) - and electron beams or adding peroxides to the molten mix or to the reactor as it is made.

SO -- this is why the stuff is so difficult to glue, paint, or pretty much anything else (but also makes it impervious to ammonia, Drano, etc., etc.).

The solvent glues with a 5 minute set (like Gorilla, the new 2 type Liquid Nails "Perma" and others which are hitting the market), use the Fit, Pull Apart, Refit method - and adding just a miniscule amount of water actually helps (read your instructions) the bond
as the solvent is evaporating.

Bad thing is that these glues have no torque strength against twisting, etc., because the glue is mostly bonded to itself! Hanging - that's one thing, but if it was a "car door flap" - it could never withstand the pressure of the linkage.

CA (Krazy Glue) in gel form might be your best bet- but you won't find any of the commercial accelerators unless you go to a model shop or hobby shop. These are little more than water with an alkaline agent. The faster the acidity of the glue vanishes, the faster it sets up. Water dilutes it, so it sets up faster.

Water will ideally do that (use a spray mist bottle), and even better yet, add a little baking soda, and make sure it is in solution (stir it well). this will cause it to rapidly set.

Make sure you're fingers are clear. Like WAY clear.