Replacing fluorescent 2x4 fixtures with LED...which approach?

[clay]

I have 3 fluorescent 2x4' panels in part of my basement which has drop-ceiling. 2 of the 3 fixtures are now flickering and rather than spend any time/money fixing them or investigating what's going on, I'd like to use the opportunity to replace them with something LED. I don't really need dimming capability, but I would like to stay in a reasonably similar Lumens range with whatever direction I go.

I see 3 main options, but wanted to get some opinions:

1. Replace existing bulbs with drop-in LED replacements. Bypass the ballast in each fixture. Looks like I can find T8 LED bulbs for about $10 each (haven't done much pricing research). 4 bulbs per fixture, so about $40 a fixture, though I might also get by just fine with 2 lights only in each.

2. Fully remove existing fixtures and replace with 2x2' or 2x4' LED panels. Cost looks to range in the $100 to $150 range each, depending on size. I haven't really checked eBay or Amazon options yet, and I'd imagine I could find panels for a good bit cheaper on one of those, if I'm willing to go the route of direct from china or random sellers with no brand name/reputation/warranty.

3. Remove existing fixtures and replace with more standard fixtures that use screw in bulbs. So, maybe I replace each existing fixture with 2 "can" lights and powerful screw in LED bulbs. Maybe $20 per "can" fixture and $10 for a high power LED bulb.

Any thoughts?

[mattkime]

I'd probably lean toward #3.

[Acer]

I hesitate to install the "integrated" LED style panels where you'd have to wire in an entire fixture if it goes bad. 35,000 hours is a long time, but it's not forever, especially with today's bottom-dollar manufacturing standards.

[MikeF]

You can get LED fluorescent replacements that just go in without the need to remove the ballasts.

[Racer X]

MikeF wrote:
You can get LED fluorescent replacements that just go in without the need to remove the ballasts.

Yup. Did that in my garage. $18 for 2 tubes at our local Costco. Work well when cold, instant full bright. Well worth it. Wish I could do that cheaply to my 8' fixtures too.

[Robert M]

Clay,

#1 or @2 and definitely only do something that will let you use standard "off-the-shelf" lamps (aka bulbs/tubes). Nothing proprietary. If the bulb goes, run to Home Depot and buy a replacement. Nothing integrated. Nothing that combines the bulb and the fixture.

Hard to say which is the better choice: LED tubes or cans with screw in bulbs. Each has its pros and cons, not only in performance but appearance. I prefer cans and bulbs (aka high hats) but that's just me. That way, I have a wider variety of bulbs to choose from in the store or online. You'll have more options for wattage, color and brightness.

For the high hats in my kitchen, I'm using bulbs with these stats:

12 Watt - BR30 - 65W Equal - 800 Lumens - Color Corrected 92 CRI - 2700 Kelvin

The 800 or so lumen bulbs I had originally were discontinued by Home Depot. So, it took me a bit of searching find suitable replacements. I like a bright kitchen and the current crop of locally available 65 watt bulbs were in the 650 lumen range. Not acceptable. I found suitable replacements online in a matter of minutes. Since they were BR30 bulbs, getting them shipped to me wasn't an issue at all

Key, though, is that it was my choice to go with the higher lumen bulbs. Lots of other options were available in higher and lower wattage, color and lumens. I could've chosen from a slew of other bulbs.

But, you're talking a basement. you may be better off with LED tubes. It really all depends on how you want the basement to look with the lights shining.

Above all, though, only lighting that uses standard off-the-shelf fixtures and bulbs.

Robert

[btfc]

Hard to say without pictures of the current fixtures, but my first instinct is #3.

[OWC Jamie]

I tried a LED tube that would work with an electronic ballast only. I wasn't sure what the ballast was in the old fixture because the label was illegible. I tried it anyway. The LED lights flickered at what appeared to be 30hz for about 15 seconds and died.
I put the fluorescent grow tubes back in and used it for my plants.

I ordered Hypericon tubes with tombstones that the fixture needs to be wired for bypassing the ballast and for single end wiring. Unfortunately that old fixture had crimp in tombstones (the newer fixtures mostly have slide-ins ).
Very carefully rewired the old style tombstones for single end power and the LED lights are pretty nice.

I've had a lot of ballasts go bad so I'm biased towards bypassing them.

18 watts per tube vs 36(T8) or 40(T12) is worth the effort to rewire a light ( if it's easy to rewire ) IMO.
Especially here with electricity costs 22-25¢/kwh. (4 foot lights )

Edit: I bought the clear tubes. They are a little harsh on the eyes with no diffuser. Good for plant lights, maybe good enough for the shop. In a basement I'd get the frosted tubes rather than clear.
Edit: Not a fan of cans. But they do work well functionally as task lights in a kitchen.

[Bill in NC]

#1 only works if you already have T8 tubes/ballasts, not the older T12.

So I vote for #3.

[Racer X]

Bill in NC wrote:
#1 only works if you already have T8 tubes/ballasts, not the older T12.

So I vote for #3.

I dunno. I pulled out T12 40 watt tubes and pit in super skinny LED tubes from Costco.