A plumbing question, in pictorial form

[Doc]

billb wrote:
tape on compression fittings is supposed to be a no-no

If you're referring to my post, please take note that I was not referring to a compression-fitting. It's threaded PVC, which takes either Teflon tape or thread-compound.

[macphanatic]

A little C-4 should solve the entire problem.

Seriously, though, you may want to bring a plumber in to correct the whole install. I don't like the use of the flexible pvc unless absolutely necessary, particularly in that position. It tends to collect a lot of crap.

[OWC Jamie]

Well, yeah I was referring to your post, but I just wanted to make sure Greg didn't put tape on the compression fittings at the leak he was referring to.
But absolutely, if that bendy pipe gets disturbed or replaced - new tape or dope on the threaded conn. on the other end for sure.
In fact, some times it's best to just replace everything or at least take it all apart and start over from the threaded fitting to the tailpiece, as 'Fil suggests.

[lafinfil]

"... and I am still interested in what that white clamp's purpose is."

What white clamp Bill ?

Hey Greg - here is a good overview for you http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/kitch.../drain.htm

It covers a double bowl sink - but yours is basically the same job, just a little easier

[OWC Jamie]

billb wrote:





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edit: I've never seen a sprayer cord with a ferrite bead attached. :-)
Is that to stop kids from pulling it out too far ?

The flexible chrome colored flex pipe for the sink sprayer (in the background) has a white clamp on it. (I facetiously called it a ferrite bead) I imagine its function is a stop block, but I can't imagine why one would want to limit the amount of hose available to pull out. Unless 50% of hose remaining under the sink just makes it easier to fall back.

[Greg the dogsitter]

Another question, if I may...

Are these pipes and tubes supposed to connect easily? Or is some force required to move the fittings into correct position?

Thanks,

GtDS

[GGD]

billb wrote:
[quote=billb]





-
edit: I've never seen a sprayer cord with a ferrite bead attached. :-)
Is that to stop kids from pulling it out too far ?

The flexible chrome colored flex pipe for the sink sprayer (in the background) has a white clamp on it. (I facetiously called it a ferrite bead) I imagine its function is a stop block, but I can't imagine why one would want to limit the amount of hose available to pull out. Unless 50% of hose remaining under the sink just makes it easier to fall back.
Maybe it's a dual purpose, looks like it might be a weight, and a stop block.

[OWC Jamie]

I'm gonna guess (from remembering how my flex pipe gets caught on the cold water shut-off sometimes) that the stop block stops just that from happening.
If the hose in that pic were to fall back on the left side of the drain pipe rather than straight down on the right side of the drain pipe, it could get caught.

Wouldn't help with my plumbing. My plumbing was installed by a carpenter who put the shutoffs 180 degrees the wrong way facing the flex pipe rather than away from the flex pipe to minimize getting snagged.

--

Greg- I'm assuming you loosened and yanked off the u-shaped trap without taking it all apart:
All the plastic parts should go easy.
You have to undo all the threaded ring compression fittings, unless you have a very deep well of four letter words and /or patience.

remove ring, slide clear washer out, put pipe up next to washer, thread compression fitting ring back on. Hand tight. When doing two at once a third hand comes in handy.

The circle in the first pic and the arrow in the second pic are indicating compression fittings. If you don't dissasemble them and put back together in pieces they'll hear your frustration in East Kalamazoo.

[OWC Jamie]

pictorially, because I am a losuy typer:


If you get the compression ring (the turny part) up on the upper pipe held in place on the upper pipe by the internal clear washer (pay attention to angles of clear washer when you take it apart) , those two should stay in place by the washer. (like in the pic)I've seen a couple rings that are bigger than the washer and you can't duplicate what you see in the pic. You'll need a third hand or some tape to hold it up.

[Black Landlord]

plumbking and colleagues not needed here, this is easy stuff and you'll feel good once you apply your analytical skills to learn how it all works (it's really self-evident once you get it apart). Total cost to get it back right <$15.

Everything billb has said is sound. Where I come from Kitchen drain is always 1 1/2", bathroom 1 1/4".

Looks like someone was in the habit of pouring hot grease down the drain at some point . . .

Despite the rotting-away end I can't imagine you don't have enough good metal on that tailpiece to get the P-trap piece on adequately, but I suppose someone might have gone a little ape with a saw to make things work.

I would get a new metal branchpiece and a nice assortment of compression washers-- the one you'll need the most of is the nylon ring type. You'll see the other types once you take things apart.
None of that white stuff should need replacing but a good cleaning wouldn't hurt (don't scratch/rough up the mating surfaces though).
The flex pipe is fine but always seems to draw strong negative reactions when brought up here.
If there's one piece of wisdom I can pass along from messing with this exact stuff for several years, it's to make sure things are lined up before tightening-- don't try to join two pipes at an angle and think you can tighten them into alignment.

There are some tricks you can do with tape to get really ghetto drain setups sort of working, but they don't apply to your situation (hopefully). So no tape should be needed.