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Does anyone have any real data on this "overheating" problem, because it doesn't seem logical.
CFLs use about 1/4 the power of incandescent bulbs and therefor generate 1/4 the heat. Seems like a fixture designed for incandescent bulbs should have no problem dissipating the heat from a CFL.
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If you're referring to my post, I was talking about LED not CFL. CFL bulbs get warm, but not hot. You can still take a CFL bulb out of a fixture with your bare hands if it's been on.
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[quote blusubaru]If you're referring to my post, I was talking about LED not CFL. CFL bulbs get warm, but not hot. You can still take a CFL bulb out of a fixture with your bare hands if it's been on.
Don't LED's use even less power than CFLs and therefor even less heat? I'm having trouble understanding the source heat problems related to very low wattage devices.
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>>Does anyone have any real data on this "overheating" problem, because it doesn't seem logical.
I think it has more to do with the transformer than the tube itself. If a pocket is surrounded by insulation then its possible for the bulb to slowly fry itself.
That said, I'd always do a couple of tests rather than assume that a bulb doesn't work.
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It's not the amount of heat that is the issue, it's the sensitivity of the electronic components in the base to any kind of heat. An incandescent bulb is in reality a simple electric heater (glowing resistive element) that happens to throw off a little light along with all that heat (that's why it is so inefficient). Since it is only a crude piece of resistive wire strung between the terminals it has no sensitive components to get fried.
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We put a 50w equiv. CFL that has the advantage of looking like a standard flood lamp instead of the swirly CFL, which my wife hates the look of. If I was doing it over again, I would use a bit higher power, but still, pretty decent light and very little watts.
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I replaced 6 recessed lights with cfls at many times the cost of regular bulbs and everyone of them burnt out. So much for savings.
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[quote Dakota]I replaced 6 recessed lights with cfls at many times the cost of regular bulbs and everyone of them burnt out. So much for savings.
I tried CFL a few years back, and they burned out within a month or two. Of the ones I've put in over the past 15 months, only 1 (of 12 or so) has died.
YMMV
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PAR20 (and other size) reflector halogens are dimmable with inexpensive electronic dimmers and they provide excellent light quality--both spectrum and Color Rendition Index.
Those things aren't true for CFLs. CFLs are also much more of an environmental hazard.
If you dim PAR20s, the energy consumption advantage of CFLs is largely negated (depending on the dimming level, of course).
CFLs? Bah!
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I have CF bulbs base down, in torchiere-style lamps. the bases still get hot, anf the plastic will yellow from the heat, and they are completely exposed, so any heat generated will go up.
Now, take those bulbs, turn them upside down, and put them in a recessed can, surrounded by 15" of insulation in an attic................ You guess what is next.
For one thing, make sure any bulb you get is built for base up use.
